Two hundred years ago, every Vermont farm had an average of a dozen cows and made their own butter and cheese. During the mid-1800's, milk was brought to cheese co-ops, centrally located factories that elevated farmstead operations to a more commercial venture. These co-ops turned milk into butter and cheese, primarily Cheddar, as a way to extend the season and preserve milk that would otherwise spoil.

Chunks of ice were the only forms of refrigeration in the early 1900's, until the refrigerated truck entered the scene after World War II. Starting in1952, milk was collected by truck and bottled for redistribution throughout New England. Lately cheese making has again become a farmhouse activity, with only a few of the original cheese makers, such as Crowley Cheese (est. 1824), and Grafton Cheese Company (est. 1892), Cabot Creamery (est.1893), remaining.

Making cheese is a basic formula, but Vermont cheese makers are proving that cheese goes beyond a recipe: it takes nurturing both the soil and the flock, tribe or herd with a healthy respect for the process of turning raw milk into cheese. Behind every wedge of soft-ripened, gently seasoned, or wheel of naturally aged Vermont cheese is a passionate cheese maker and a farm, and my book is all about appreciating the story behind Vermont cheese. Vermont cheese makers have made a commitment to a lifestyle and the result is award-winning artisan and farmstead cheese that reflects tradition, dedication and a sense of place. Click here to visit Vermont Cheese Council homepage.

Visit some local cheese farms.

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